Monday, December 14, 2015

ATV Rear Axle Bearing Installation Guide

*These are general instructions. Always check your service manual for your particular make and model to get a better understanding of the particular setup and to make sure you use factory torque levels.  As always, Boss Bearing strongly encourages you to take your machine to a certified mechanic if you have no previous experience with these machines. You can buy the bearings online and save a few bucks!

1. It is important to make sure you clean your machine to prevent any problems going forward with the installation. 

For the Axle Housing:
2. Lay out all of the components of the Rear Axle Bearing Kit. Be sure that you have every part that you need.
3. After that, place the new bearings in the freezer for just an hour before installing them. This will allow the bearings to contract to a smaller tolerance.
4. Now you are going to remove the axle and the axle housing out of the final drive unit. 
a. After that you will have to remove the dust seals with a seal pick or you can just use a flat blade screwdriver.
5. Next, using the proper bearing puller, remove the bearing from the axle housing. 
a. Once it is removed, clean away the grease, grime, and rust from the bearing bore. 
b. Once it’s clean, inspect it for any wear and tear damage to it. 
c. Be certain that there is no damage to the bearing; otherwise it will cause the new bearing to hang during installation.
6. After that is done, you can now install the new bearing into the axle housing. 
a. Insert the bearing until it’s fully seated, or at the OEM specified depth. To do this, use the proper driver or socket to only apply force to the outer race of your bearing. 
b. Then you will want to grease the lips of the dust seal.
7. Now you can install the dust seal into the axle housing next. 
a. Push the seal in so that it meets the OEM requirements, or so that it fits flush.

For the Drum Brake:
1. For this part of the installation, you’ll want to remove the hub nut, brake drum cover, shoes, and brake drum.
2. You’ll remove the brake drum from the axle housing. 
3. Next, use a seal pick or flat blade screwdriver to remove the dust seal.
4. Use snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring after the dust seal is removed.
5. Using a heat gun, heat the brake panel exactly around the area of the bearings (a blow dryer will also work).
6. Drive out the bearings, clean them thoroughly, and inspect them for any damage.
7. Now take the bearing out of the freezer and install it into the brake panel.
8. Drive the bearing in so it is set fully using the proper driver or socket to only apply force to the outer race of your bearing. 
9. Install the second bearing the same exact way.
a. Check for any spacers or collars that need to go between or outside of the bearings.
10. Use the snap ring pliers to install the snap rings into the groove and apply grease to the lip of the dust seal.
11. Install the dust seal over the bearings to OEM standards.

For the Drum Cover:
1. Take out the old dust seal from the brake drum cover.
2. Clean and inspect the seal area for any damage.
3. Now apply grease to the lip of the new seal.
4. Install the new seal into the brake drum cover.
5. Drive the seal into place.

Now all you have left to do is put the machine back together and replace any replace any other seals if necessary. Make sure all of the fasteners are tightened and install new cotter pints with the hub nuts.

Copyright ©2015 Boss Bearing.  All Rights Reserved.

Tuesday, October 13, 2015

Introducing the Boss Bearing Dealer Discount Program

Do you fix dirt bikes, motorcycles, ATV's, UTV's or snowmobiles? Do you have your own store? Are you interested in becoming a dealer for Boss Bearing?

Boss Bearing offers special dealer discounts. Qualified dealers can enjoy the low cost, quality products that we sell. With different levels, Boss Bearing is offering this discount to small repair shops, as well as, large retail establishments.

Here's how it works:
1.  Fill out the Dealer Application;
2.  Once we review your application we will contact you with our dealer discount codes;
3.  Discounts are tiered based on your order size.  Orders between $100.00-$199.99 qualify for an additional 10% off our already low sale prices, orders between $200.00-$299.99 qualify for an additional 20% off our already low sale prices; and all orders over $300.00 qualify for an additional 25% off our already low sale prices.

Saturday, July 11, 2015

*These are general instructions. Always check your service manual for your particular make and model to get a better understanding of the particular setup and to make sure you use factory torque levels.  As always, Boss Bearing strongly encourages you to take your machine to a certified mechanic if you have no previous experience with these machines. You can buy the bearings online and save a few bucks!

1.       Always make sure to clean the bike thoroughly! Dirt in the area where the bearing is to be installed can cause the bearing not to fit the way it is supposed to.

2.       Remove triple clamps from the bike frame
Remove the upper triple clamp
a.       Remove the spanner nut in order to drop the steering stem out of the frame.

3.       Remove the old outer races from the frame.
a.       A steering stem bearing removal tool is the recommended tool to remove the old outer races but they can be removed by using a drift.
b.      Tap around the inside edge with a drift until the races, upper and lower, come out.

4.       Remove lower steering bearing from steering stem.
a.       Remove the rollers from the bearing by destroying the cage. This will expose a lip on the bearing.
b.      A drift can be used to tap the bearing off while the stem is in a vice. Make sure to hold the stem in the middle of the stem away from where the bearings rest when the stem is in a vice. A bearing puller can also be used.

5.       Inspect the parts.
a.       Clean all of the parts thoroughly to remove all old grease, rust and grime.
b.      Check the frame head tube for burs.
c.       Remove any burs. They will hang up the new races during the installation.
d.      Inspect the steering stem for any damage that may interfere with the new bearing

6.       Install the lower steering bearing.
a.       Remember to slide the steering seal onto the stem first
b.      Find a pipe that slides over the steering stem but only makes contact with the inner race of the bearing. The care of the bearing may distort which will cause binding in your steering if pressed on.

7.       Install the new outer races
a.       A bearing installation tool works best when installing the outer races but they may also be pressed in.
                                       i.      If pressing the bearings in the key is start them straight. Never apply pressure to the tapered portions of the races; this could nick them causing the steering to bind.
b.      A tool can be made with a piece of threaded bar stock some nuts that fit and some washers that have a slightly smaller outside diameter than the races you are installing.
c.       After the bearings are pulled in hit both ends of the threaded rod with a hammer to fully seal the bearings.

8.       Inspect you work
a.       Make sure that the lower steering stem bearing and the outer races are properly sealed.
b.      Grease the bearings properly.

9.       Reassemble the steering assembly
a.       Insert the steering stem back into the frame
b.      Place the upper bearing and seal onto the frame. Thread the spanner nut back onto the stem. Torque the spanner nut to the levels that are recommended by your service manual.
c.       Check for binding in the steering by turning the assembly left and right.

10.   Maintenance
a.       After the new bearings have settled into place it may be necessary to re-torque the spanner nut.

Copyright ©2015 Boss Bearing.  All Rights Reserved.

Wednesday, June 3, 2015

The Best Starter Dirt Bikes - In Our Opinion!

Summer is fast approaching.  Wouldn’t it be fun to get your kids out of the house and on the trails with you?  Here are some guidelines we put together to help you find the right dirt bike for your little one.
Almost all off-road vehicle companies offer smaller versions of their adult favorites.  These Youth Dirt Bikes are smaller with engine sizes ranging anywhere from the 50cc to the 125cc.  So which is the right one for you?

50cc Engine

Perfect for riders between the ages of 6-8, these are our picks for the ultimate beginner dirt bikes; you can even add special training wheels until the rider learns to balance on them!   If you are interested in a 2-stroke engine the best choices are the Yamaha PW50 and the KTM 50 SX Mini.  Both feature a fully automatic transmission which means that there is no shifting required so your kids can just twist and go. The seats are between 19-21 inches high which is ideal if you have a very small rider. The Honda CRF50F is a very affordable starter bike and it’s a 4-stroke.  Another great 4-stroke to consider is the Yamaha TT-R50. 2-stroke dirt bikes are really fun to ride, but they may not be the best choice for a beginner. The 4-strokes, especially the trail bikes, are easier to ride than the 2-strokes. If you're the least bit apprehensive, definitely go with a 4-stroke until your young rider gains some experience.  

60cc, 65cc, 70cc, 80cc and 85cc Engines

These engine classes have higher seats than the 50cc, are slightly heavier and more powerful which make them ideal for kids between the ages of  8-12 who are still beginners but are just too big for the 50cc.  The best 2-stroke models out there are the more affordable Kawasaki KX65 and the pricey KTM 65 SX.   A good rule of thumb to follow is that once you start going up in engine size, the more complex operating the dirt bike becomes.  No longer is there just a throttle.  Now you’ve got to consider clutching and manual shifting.  The 4-stroke Honda CRF80F and the 2-stroke Suzuki RM85 are terrific choices for young riders just starting out on a manual transmission.  The power is controllable and the shifting is super smooth.

90cc, 105cc, 100cc, 110cc and 125cc Engines

It’s easy to do…you buy shoes and clothes this way…you say to yourself, ‘It’s time to buy something that my child can grow into’!  But when it comes to Dirt Bikes, resist that urge!  You still want your rider to be able to touch the ground and reach the handlebars!  These larger dirt bikes have the same handling concepts as the smaller dirt bikes but because of the fact that they have more power they need a more experienced rider to handle them.  These are targeted more toward riders aged 10-15. The Kawasaki KLX110 actually allows parents to adjust the speed on this bike for kids just starting out and let them get used to the power and just ride until they are ready for more. This is also a durable bike with a 4-stroke engine and is a three speed.   The Honda CRF100F is also a great starting point to introduce your rider to greater speed and power.  But the Yamaha TT-R125 might just be our favorite.  It has the long and sleek styling of the YZ’s with a torquey engine.  Mom and Dad could hop on it for fun too because the seat height is about 32’.  It’s fun for the whole family!

Whichever dirt bike you decided to buy your young rider, always keep in mind safety first.  Don’t push the rider onto a more powerful machine then he or she feels comfortable on.  Each level of these youth bikes comes with its own set of skill challenges and the first set should be mastered before moving onto the next. 

Friday, April 10, 2015

Help Us Help You - A Top 5 List!

Everyone loves a top 5 list!  So we came up with the 5 most important tips for you to use when you call us about parts for your dirt bike, ATV/UTV and street bike.  We get many phone calls on a daily basis from customers with questions about our products. Keep 'em coming - we love it!  But many times it is difficult for us to help a customer because they do not have all of the information we need in order to ensure that they get the correct part. So here are the top 5 things you should have handy when you call us so that we can help you in the quickest and most effective way possible.

#1:  Have the specific Make, Model, and Year!
These 3 pieces of information are the most important to know when you call us to find a particular part because, as you know, many manufacturers change their line up from year to year.  So, for example, what fits the 2001 Blaster may not fit the 2006.
If you are having trouble finding out the specific model or year look for the VIN number.  Not all manufacturers put their VIN numbers in the same place.  It is usually stamped on the frame under the motor somewhere, usually on the left hand side.  Don’t confuse this with the number that is stamped on the motor, that’s the motor serial number, not the VIN number.  If the VIN number isn’t on the frame rail under the motor it could be somewhere else on the frame.  It could be attached as a metal plate, it could be a sticker.  Other places to look on the frame are near the a-arm mounts, around the top of the steering shaft or behind the air filter housing.  It could also be on the rail behind the brush guard or on the swingarm bearing tube.  If you are patient and thorough you will find it eventually.  Most importantly– it must have 17 characters.  If it has 17 characters you’ve found it! Now go to the nearest dealership and they should be able to look it up for you. You can also search the web but many VIN websites charge you for this information.
#2:  Dimensions are always helpful!

We understand that sometimes your machine is not stock.  Rock on!  We love a challenge!  If that's the case and you need a special bearing ALWAYS have the dimensions. Use calipers to measure the Inside Diameter (ID), the Outside Diameter (OD) and the Width to help us determine if we carry the bearing you are looking for.  Do you own a pair of calipers?  If not, you probably shouldn't be working on your own machine anyway!

#3:  If you have already ordered and you need to return or cancel your order it is helpful if you have the following on hand:
-The name that you placed the order under.  Do you know how many guys get their girlfriends to buy their parts?  It's crazy!
-The order number.  Did you order it on eBay, Amazon, from our website (hint:  the best deal) or did you call in?
-The part number you received (its the number located under the bar code on the little white sticker on the kit)
#4:  Why not just send an email first, here's why:
Many customers will call in and find out that they need to get more information before we can help them.  So they end up having to call back!  A lot of times, if you send an email first we can get all that information gathering out of the way.  We can then troubleshoot if we need more info to help you, send you links to the kits you need making it easier for you to complete an order, or send you return instructions and/or shipping details.  We are a small company with only about 12 employees so your email is going to a real person.  You can find a link with our email address at the bottom left hand-side of our home page.  If you are on our mobile site you can switch over to the main site to get there.
#5:  Never Assume
You've heard the saying, "Never Assume, it makes an 'Ass' out of 'u' and 'me'!"  Never assume that all machines are alike. Never assume that the part is NOT going to fit just because it looks different. Many times customers return a part thinking that it will not fit because it looks too small or too big and then have to reorder it because it turned out to be the correct part after all. Also never assume that everything on the machine is stock especially if you did not purchase it from a dealer.
Remember, we are here to help you so having these few pieces of information on hand at the time that you call can help us to help you order the part that you need or to get your problem solved quickly. Our toll-free number is 1-888-354-3343.